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Travel Australia Darwin to Daly Waters
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Our trusty Subaru Forester was packed with me, my partner Brenda, Katchalla (our concerned but enthusiastic spoodle), and enough snacks to survive a tiny apocalypse. With our brand new Brass Monkey securely tucked into the boot, we set off on our mission: the first leg of an epic journey from Darwin to Ulladulla, NSW, with Daly Waters shimmering in our minds as our initial oasis.
We departed from Darwin, the tropical humidity clinging to us like a second skin. After about 98 kilometers, the promise of caffeine lured us into the Adelaide River Country Store. Brenda, ever the coffee connoisseur, declared their coffee to be "a damn good coffee," which is a high compliment indeed. Meanwhile, Katcha sniffed around, searching for the right spot to relieve himself and stumbled upon the store's no dickhead policy.
Back on the Stuart Highway, the landscape began to slowly transform. The lush greens of Darwin gradually gave way to the more resilient vegetation of the outback.
The road stretched endlessly before us, and at times, the sheer emptiness evoked a "Where All Machines Must Die" vibe reminiscent of MAD MAX. The Forester smoothly cruised along between 120 and 130 kph. With the air conditioning cranked up, we watched for rogue kangaroos, birds feasting on roadkill, and unfenced cattle.
Finally, after what felt like an eternity (but was a respectable 6 hours and 45 minutes), we arrived at Daly Waters with a bug splattered windscreen. The turn-off felt like a secret passage to a legendary watering hole. We bypassed the famous Daly Waters Historic Pub—its quirky charm noted for a future visit—and instead pulled into the Daly Waters Hi Way Inn. Its pet-friendly policy was a godsend, and Katcha immediately made himself at home by barking at the neighbors. We made a note to return to the historic pub on our triumphant return.
Our culinary highlight for the evening was a gourmet Laksa noodle dish enjoyed in the privacy of our room. While we both longed for the legendary pub fare we'd glimpsed during check-in, the comfort of having Katcha at the foot of the bed was worth any culinary compromise. We just had to pour in boiling water and wait a few minutes for the heavenly flavors.
The next day, we woke before dawn, drawn by a soft golden light. Our morning walk with Katcha allowed us to admire the sunrise through towering trees, road trains, and outback scenery. Standing alone against the vast horizon, the branches of one tree glowed with vibrant colors, creating a truly breathtaking sight. It had a certain stark beauty, a resilient sentinel in a "no dickhead country." It was a peaceful start to the day, a reminder of the quiet beauty hidden within the seemingly harsh landscape.
As we continued our journey south, leaving Daly Waters and its iconic sunrise tree behind, we couldn't help but chuckle at our microwaved dinner and the sheer randomness of the outback. The Subie rumbled on, carrying Brenda and a happy spoodle toward our next adventure. The memories of Daly Waters were already taking root as a unique starting chapter in our travel tales.
Day two: Daly Waters to Cloncurry
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